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MEC 9000 Crushing low brass 28 rims

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MEC 9000 Crushing low brass 28 rims

Postby Dogpa » Sat Jun 23, 2012 1:20 pm

Folks, I've got a resizing issue and my MEC manual seems to be vague in addressing this problem. My 9000 is crushing the rim of any low brass shells that I try to reload. I used up my limited amount of AA-HS yesterday and when I tried to switch up to Fiocchi's today, after adjusting my powder and shot drops for the new hulls and wads, I found that the collet is crushing the rims. I checked for debris or blockage inside the collet, nothing. I turned back the adjusting nut to minimize the amount of re-sizing applied to the shell, but this seemed to make no difference on the rim.
I ran a Rio hull through which is low brass just to check, same crushing of the rim.
I found a box of Estate (very high brass, longer than the AA) and ran one of those through, no problems.
Thought I'd check here for advice before I call MEC on Monday.

Derrick
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Re: MEC 9000 Crushing low brass 28 rims

Postby skeettx » Sat Jun 23, 2012 2:04 pm

Two things to check

1. Is the shell lifter in place?, It fits inside the collet to hold the rim up. It looks like a hollow tube with a washer welded on top.
They often fall out when the machines are moved about.

http://www.mecreloaders.com/Order/Super ... tsList.asp

2. If it is there, loosen the collet nut and turn the collet anti-clockwise, one revolution, then tighten the nut.

Let us know how this works for you.

Mike

p.s Part 99 in this parts list
http://www.mecreloaders.com/Order/9000GPartsList.asp
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Re: MEC 9000 Crushing low brass 28 rims

Postby Dogpa » Sat Jun 23, 2012 2:46 pm

Double checked the shell lifter, it's in place and seems to be properly placed in the notch on the shell lifter bracket.
I adjusted the collet another full turn counter clockwise.
Ran a shell through and there appears to be no change to the deformation on the rim.
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Re: MEC 9000 Crushing low brass 28 rims

Postby skeettx » Sat Jun 23, 2012 3:25 pm

http://www.shotgunworld.com/bbs/viewtopic.php?p=416983


here is another post
not to lower the wad guide because getting it too low will cause noisy wad insertion and possible other issues. Most particularly crushing of the rim in your sizing station.
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Re: MEC 9000 Crushing low brass 28 rims

Postby Scoutmaster » Sat Jun 23, 2012 7:41 pm

What Skeettex said. Check the wad Guide, if too low that's the problem. Fiocchi, Federal & Rems are a bit longer than AAHS hulls.
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Re: MEC 9000 Crushing low brass 28 rims

Postby Dogpa » Sat Jun 23, 2012 10:02 pm

I think I had a combo/cluster *&^% going on. I cleaned the collet and that seemed to solve the problem MOST of the time. Then I had problems getting the primer seated all the way. Then I found that after adjusting my crimp, I'd get one semi decent one followed by one or two shootable ones and then a couple of abject disaster crimps. That's when I took the bottles off, unclamped the press and took it out in the driveway where I proceeded to blast every spec of debris from the entire machine with the air hose. I ran a couple of hulls through the resizer/de-primer before I brought it back in, they looked good. I spent the rest of the time cleaning up my mess. I'll start again with adjusting my crimp sometime this week. At least my powder and shot drops should be properly adjusted and hopefully my sizing issues are fixed now.

All in all, I'd have been further ahead finding some place to sell a pint of blood and using the money to buy a box of shells at Big 5.
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Re: MEC 9000 Crushing low brass 28 rims

Postby skeettx » Sun Jun 24, 2012 6:59 am

:shock: :lol:
Thanks, I needed that :D
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Re: MEC 9000 Crushing low brass 28 rims

Postby Dogpa » Tue Jun 26, 2012 10:35 pm

Got back at it today after work, went much better. The resizing issue seems to be resolved, had some primer seating issues that I think I'm done with now as well.
Now my only issue is the crimps, I knocked out about 100 shells and probably had 35 bad but shootable crimps, 2 or 3 throw aways, 15-20 reasonable crimps and the rest were nearly perfect...
Now I need to figure out what the cause of the variance is, is it my operation or is it the hulls themselves?
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Re: MEC 9000 Crushing low brass 28 rims

Postby rexr » Wed Jun 27, 2012 7:36 am

I find on my reloading that variation in crimps come from hulls of differing lengths. Other than an occasional bad pre-crimp, length is my biggest cause of differing crimps. Some hulls are worse in that respect than others. My skeet shooting 20 ga Rem hulls are all over the map in length. The long hulls end up with a swirl crimp and the short ones have a small hole in the center of the crimp. As long as the shot is not dribbling out the end, they all go bang and break clays just fine. I recently purchased 500 16 ga Cheddite hulls from BPI that are very consistent in length and true to form, the crimps are consistent.
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Re: MEC 9000 Crushing low brass 28 rims

Postby Shriner » Wed Jun 27, 2012 9:51 am

DogPa,

I used a Mec 9000 for probably 60-70,000 rounds over the last 6 years. Don't use it much since I bought a new PW 800+. One thing I figured out about the MEC was that
it worked a whole lot better if you De-prime and resize all your hulls first. Then skip that step and start reloading the hulls in the primer/powder step.

Set the crimp starter to "Close" the mouth of the hull as much as possible. (Measure your empty hulls and set for the Tallest (longest) hulls.)

Remove the last stage "Finished hull sizer" ( last step before ejecting the finished shell ). If not set exactly correct for the hulls ( hulls all have to be the same length or it can't work)
it will mess up crimps.. You don't need it anyway.

There are TWO adjustments for the crimper. One for depth of the crimp plunger. This sets the total depth of the crimp. It is adjusted with the top threaded plunger screw and set with the lock nut.
The other is the Cam adjustment on the arm that pushes the plunger down. This sets the finished length of the hull. Adjusting the cam on the drive arm has a lot to do with the finished crimp.
(the manual, under trouble shooting tells how it works )

Measure your empty hulls and set BOTH crimp adjustments to work on the "Tallest", (longest) hulls. The shorter ones will be "OK". If you adjust the crimper to the shortest shells, the tall ones will
be over crimped and a real mess.

Another thing. If your reloads are going to be fired in the same gun all the time ( Except for autos and pumps) then resizing isn't necessary. Back the resizer all the way off, oil the hell out of it,
and just use it to deprime. The whole unit will work smother. And deprime as a seperate operation. With LOW BRASS, the resizer doesn't do much anyway. I know a bunch of Guys who never
resize 28ga. hulls and use them in different guns including autos without problems ! I don't think tha 28ga. is as suseptable to expanding as the larger guages. Especially low brass hulls. You
can't resize the plastic part anyway and expect it to stay resized. You would have to heat the plastic part and put it back in the factory mold to get it to actually go back to( and stay) factory size.

Keep the unit cleaned and "Well Lubed" !
Good Luck
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